Image

Chișinău, Moldova

Chisinau could use some sprucing up. In fact, when my bus crossed the border from Romania into Moldova the roads instantly became bumpier. As we bumped along the road to Chisinau we passed other road users such as cars, and trucks, and horse carts. Dilapidated could be one word to describe the city. The sidewalks are cracked, uneven, decaying, you always need to watch your step.

And yet it’s quite nice here. People are friendly, there’s some things to see, some lovely parks. I wandered the city, taking in the atmosphere that is very pleasant despite the disrepair of the streets. And of course the interior of shops and restaurants is modern and clean and nothing like the exterior. In the centre there is a massive indoor and outdoor market, where you can buy everything from cheese and fish to clothes to bed sheets, and the amount of produce for sale was a breath of fresh air after the sad selections in many grocery stores I’ve been in recently.

I visited the National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History, a ticket for which costs less than one dollar. I think it would have been a top notch museum maybe 30 years ago, and it’s still quite good, but not very modern. They have a huge collection of taxidermised animals, and fossils, and info about the geography of Moldova, as well as the history of people in the area from the stone age till the present day. I probably would have learned a lot if there had been any info in English. It didn’t help that since I arrived with only 45 minutes till closing there was a strange old man shooing all the visitors to follow the same route and hurry up so that he could turn off the lights in each section after us. But as I said earlier, $1.

I was very happy to find a bar serving Moldovan craft beer. It was surprising to find, and even more surprising that there was quite a good selection of quality beers. Moldova is known for their wine, so I certainly didn’t expect a menu of 20 different beers from 4 local breweries.

A highlight of my time in Chisinau was exploring an abandoned observatory. Right next to the main road and the University of Medicine is a building with all its exterior walls removed. Upon climbing to the top floor there is a tower leading into the dome of an old observatory. The building is covered in graffiti and piled full of trash, and it made for a fun bit of exploration.

Well, that’s about all I have to say about the least visited country in Europe. Join me next time for an even less visited country in Europe.

Here be photos.

Image

Cluj-Napoca, Romania

It was an eight hour bus ride from Budapest to Cluj, half of it in the dark. I saw very little of the Romanian countryside on account of this, which is a shame. I was especially sad for the darkness because the roads we drove once in Romania felt quite exciting. We drove downhill for quite some time on a narrow, winding road full of switchbacks and tight corners. I suppose the darkness added to the excitement of the drive, as all I could really see were the headlights of oncoming traffic.

And then I arrived in Cluj-Napoca, Cluj for short, largest city in a certain region of Romania you may have heard of before, Transylvania… Ever since arriving I must admit I find myself less sanguine than usual. I feel somewhat drained. I awaken in the morning feeling weak and somewhat faint. I shy away from the sun…

I only kid. I feel just fine and there are absolutely no vampires here. I cannot stress enough the fact that everything is normal.

Cluj was under construction, or renovation I suppose. The cathedral was shrouded in cloth, another large church was infested with scaffolding, and the purportedly stunning ‘mirror street’ in which both sides of a street are identical, is somewhat lopsided with one half being refurbished. It was an interesting city to spend some time in nonetheless. Fairly quiet, good coffee, small streets and wide avenues. I spent an afternoon walking in a park on a hill, trying not to trip on the decaying concrete paths and steps. There were a couple dozen strange concrete cylinders jutting out of the ground on a hillside. They extended about half a meter above the ground, and since many were missing their tops, I could see that metal rungs set in to the walls allowed you to climb several meters beneath the surface, not that you’d want to with all the empty bottles people have thrown in them. Perhaps the cylinders were once sarcophagi for the vampires which used to roam this land. I do not know the answers.

I ate a rather interesting food here, from an etymological point of view. Plăcintă is a disk of dough filled with cheese, potato, or cottage cheese. They were available from the windows of little shops for about one dollar and were rather tasty. The name plăcintă comes from the Latin placenta, meaning cake. You may also associate placenta with something else that is not a cake. However, it would seem that the term placenta in English got its meaning because it resembles, in shape if not in colour, a flat, disk-like cake such as a plăcintă. There’s your fun fact for the day, now go away.

Photos